α-arbutinme te β-arbutin he matū e rua e pā tata ana, e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā hua tiaki kiri hei whakamārama me te whakakanapa i te kiri. Ahakoa he rite te hanganga matua me te tikanga mahi, he rerekētanga iti kei waenganui i ngā mea e rua ka pā ki tōna whai huatanga me ngā pānga taha pea.
I roto i te hanganga, ko te α-arbutin me te β-arbutin he glycoside o te hydroquinone, arā, he ngota huka kei roto i a rāua e piri ana ki te ngota hydroquinone. Nā tēnei āhua ōrite o te hanganga ka taea e ngā matū e rua te aukati i te whākōkī tyrosinase, e whai wāhi ana ki te hanga melanin. Mā te aukati i te tyrosinase, ka taea e ēnei matū te āwhina i te whakaiti i te hanga o te melanin, ka hua ake he kiri mārama ake, he kiri ōrite ake.
Ko te rerekētanga matua i waenga i te α-arbutin me te β-arbutin kei roto i te tūranga o te here glycosidic i waenga i ngā wāhanga glucose me te hydroquinone:
α-arbutin: I roto i te α-arbutin, ka piri te here glycosidic ki te tūranga alpha o te mowhiti hydroquinone. E whakaponohia ana ka whakarei ake tēnei tūranga i te pumau me te wairewa o te α-arbutin, kia pai ake ai te whakamahi mō te kiri. Ka whakaitihia hoki e te here glycosidic te kaha o te waikura o te hydroquinone, ka arahi pea ki te hanganga o ngā matū pouri e ārai ana i te pānga whakamārama kiri e hiahiatia ana.
β-arbutin: I roto i te β-arbutin, ka piri te here glycosidic ki te tūranga beta o te mowhiti hydroquinone. Ahakoa he whai hua anō hoki te β-arbutin ki te aukati i te tyrosinase, tera pea kāore i te tino pumau i te α-arbutin, ā, he ngāwari ake ki te waikura. Ka taea e tēnei waikura te hua ake i te hanganga o ngā matū parauri kāore i te tino hiahiatia mō te whakamārama kiri.
Nā te nui ake o tōna pumau me tōna wairewatanga, e kiia ana ko te α-arbutin te momo tino whai hua me te pai mō ngā mahi tiaki kiri. E whakaponohia ana ka pai ake ngā hua whakamārama kiri, ā, he iti ake te tūponotanga ka puta he tae ke, he pānga taha kore rānei.
Ina whakaarohia ngā hua tiaki kiri kei rotoābutin, he mea nui kia pānuihia te tapanga whakauru hei whakatau mēnā ko te α-arbutin, ko te β-arbutin rānei te mea e whakamahia ana. Ahakoa he whai hua ngā matū e rua, ko te α-arbutin te mea e kiia ana ko te kōwhiringa pai rawa atu nā te mea he pai ake tōna pumau me tōna kaha.
He mea nui hoki kia mōhio he rerekē ngā pānga o te kiri ki ia tangata. Tērā pea ka pāngia ētahi tāngata e ngā pānga taha pēnei i te riri, te whero rānei o te kiri ina whakamahi ana i ngā hua kei roto te arbutin. Pērā i ngā kai tiaki kiri katoa, he mea pai kia whakamātauria he pātaki i mua i te paninga ki tētahi wāhi kiri nui ake, ā, me kōrero ki tētahi tākuta kiri mēnā he āwangawanga āu mō ngā pānga ka pā mai.
Hei whakamutunga, ko te α-arbutin me te β-arbutin he glycoside o te hydroquinone e whakamahia ana mō ō rāua pānga whakamārama kiri. Heoi, ko te tūnga o te hononga glycosidic a te α-arbutin i te tūranga alpha ka nui ake te pumau me te wairewa, ka waiho hei whiringa pai ake mō ngā hua tiaki kiri e whai ana ki te whakaiti i te hyperpigmentation me te whakatutuki i te tae kiri ōrite.
Wā tuku: 30 o Ākuhata 2023
