ĀpurutiniHe matū tūturu tēnei e kitea ana i roto i ngā momo tipu pēnei i te bearberry, te cranberries, me te blueberries. Kua nui te aro ki tēnei matū i roto i te umanga tiaki kiri me te whakapaipai nā te mea he kaha ki te whakama me te whakamārama i te kiri. Ko te tikanga o te whakama o te arbutin e pā ana ki tōna kaha ki te aukati i te mahi a te whākōkī e kiia nei ko te tyrosinase, he mea nui ki te hanga melanin – te tae e tika ana mō te kiri, te makawe, me te tae o ngā kanohi.
Ko te tae o te kiri ka whakatauhia e te nui me te tohatoha o te melanin i hangaia e ngā melanocytes, arā, ngā pūtau motuhake i roto i te paparanga epidermal. Ko te Tyrosinase he whākōkī matua i roto i te ara hanga melanin, e whakateretere ana i te hurihanga o te waikawa amino tyrosine hei matū mua o te melanin, ā, i te mutunga ka arahi ki te hanganga o ngā tae melanin. Ko te pānga mā o te Arbutin ko te aukati whakataetae i te mahi tyrosinase.
Kei roto i te Arbutin he here glycoside, he hononga matū i waenga i te ngota huka me te ngota hydroquinone. He matū rongonui te hydroquinone me ōna āhuatanga whakamārama kiri, engari he kino ki te kiri, ā, he pānga taha pea. I tētahi atu taha, he ngāwari ake te mahi a te Arbutin hei whakakapi i te hydroquinone, me te aukati tonu i te hanga melanin.
Ina pania te arbutin ki te kiri, ka mimitihia, ka hurihia hei hydroquinone mā roto i ngā tukanga whākōkī. Kātahi ka aukati whakataetae tēnei hydroquinone i te mahi a te tyrosinase mā te noho i tōna pae hohe. Nō reira, kāore e taea te huri i ngā ngota tyrosine hei matū mua o te melanin, ka heke te hanga o te melanin. Ko te mutunga iho, ka heke haere te tae o te kiri, ka mārama ake, ka ōrite ake te tae o te kiri.
He mea nui kia mōhiotiate whakama o te arbutinKāore ngā pānga e puta wawe tonu. E tata ana ki te kotahi marama te roa o te hurihanga o te kiri, nō reira me whakamahi tonu, me te roa hoki o ngā hua kei roto te arbutin kia kitea ai ngā huringa kitea o te tae kiri. Hei tāpiri, he pai ake te mahi a te arbutin mō te whakatika i ngā take e pā ana ki te whero-kiri, pērā i ngā ira tawhito, ngā ira rā, me te melasma, kaua ki te whakarerekē i te tae kiri tūturu.
Ko te haumaru o te Arbutin he pai ake te manawanui atu i ētahi atu mea whakamama kiri, ā, he mea rongonui tēnei mā te hunga e hiahia ana ki te whakatika i te kiri kāore i te ōrite. Heoi, ka rerekē pea ngā tauhohenga takitahi, ā, he mea tika kia whakamātauria he papaki i mua i te whakauru i ngā hua tiaki kiri hou ki roto i tō mahinga.
Hei whakamutunga, ko te tikanga whakama o te arbutin ki te kiri e whakawhirinaki ana ki tōna kaha ki te aukati i te mahi tyrosinase, ka heke te hanga melanin. Ko tōna aukati whakataetae i te tyrosinase, ka heke te hanga melanin, ka waiho hei wāhanga tino pai i roto i ngā hua tiaki kiri e aro ana ki te whero me te tae kiri kāore i te ōrite. Pērā i ngā wāhanga tiaki kiri katoa, he mea pai kia kōrero ki te tākuta kiri i mua i te whakauru i ngā hua hou ki tō mahinga, inā koa he āwangawanga, he mate kiri rānei ōu.
Wā tuku: 30 o Ākuhata 2023
